On a clear day, the snow-capped peaks of Jebel Toubkal, the highest
mountain in North Africa, are visible from both Taroudannt and
Marrakech. Hiking in the mountains is becoming increasingly popular,
which isn't surprising given the majestic landscapes, where lush garden
terraces and little rivers contrast with the harsh, rocky wilderness.
The reserved but friendly Berbers still maintain a fascinating and
relatively traditional lifestyle in their picturesque villages.
Useful Addresses
For information on hiking in the Jebel Toubkal area, contact:
• Tourist Office
* avenue Mohammed V, Marrakech
( (04) 4436131; fax: (04) 4436057
• Delligation de la Jeunesse et des Sports
* stade du Hartsi, Marrakech
( (04) 4447448
• Club Alpin Francais (CAF)
* PO Box 6178, Casablanca
( (02) 2270090
Jebel Toubkal rises to 4,167m, but even the surrounding mountains are
all above 3,OOOm. The main paths are well trodden, particularly from
Imlil to Jebel Toubkal, are are suitable for walkers of all levels. The full hike can be completed in about 16 hours. though
going too fast may cause altitude sickness. Despite its popuularity, the
area is so vast that it is easy to escape the "crowds" which, in reality
are away from Toubkal itself, seldom comprise more than a few other
walkers. The paths are generally well kept and there is a good network
of refuges and gites; some villagers also rent out basic rooms in their
houses for the night.
The small town of lmlil, at 1,740m, is the most obvious starting point
for walks and hikes up Jebel Toubkal and around the area. It has shops
selling or hiring out equipment and provisions, and numerous mountain
guides and muleteers on hand; mules can be rented by the day to carry
luggage and food.
An hour's walk away is Aremd, a gorgeous Berber village perched on a
rock overlooking the surrounding plain. Most people sleep at the Neltner
hut (3,207m) of the Club Alpin Francais, four hours from Imlil, before
climbing to Toubkal's summit, from where there are fantastic views. From
Imlil, other paths lead to the main ski resort of Oukaimeden in about seven hours, the Berber village of Tachedirt (8km east
of Imlil, about three to four hours) or to Ouirgane, a day away on the
Tizi n'Test road.
The mountains are home to a variety of wildlife including several
species of butterfly, squirrels, vultures, larks and golden eagles, and
the local Berbers raise large herds of Barbary sheep and goats.
TAKING A BREAK
Berber-run kiosks at popular stops sell tea, cold drinks and,
occasionally, simple food. There are also small restaurants in Aremd and
lmlil.
Several rivers and streams cut through these mounntains and flash floods
occur in the spring
Jebel Toubkal
Ý 184 C3
* 65km south of Marrakech
v Buses from Marrakech and Taroudannt to Asni, then regular trucks to
Imlil
TOUBKAL NATIONAL PARK: INSIDE INFO
Top tips. The best time to visit the mountains is in September and
October or May and June; in summer visibility may be poor and
thunderstorms or flash floods can occur. Between April and November,
reasonably fit and determined walkers can also tackle the route. From
December to March, snow, ice and short days make climbing to the top
dangerous, even for experienced hikers.
There are also other beautiful,
less demanding walks on the lower
slopes starting from Imlil, Aremd or Ouirgane.
Take decent walking boots, hat, sun cream, sunglasses and plenty of
water.
The Toubkal Massif is popular in winter with
ski-mountaineering groups
and some of the descents, including Toubkal to Sidi Chamarouch, are
spectacular.
In more depth For more detailed information on the great trails across
the Atlas read Richard Knight's Trekking in the Moroccan Atlas and
Michael Peyron's Great Atlas Traverse or other guidebooks available in
Imlil.