Imperial Cities and Middle Atlas

3. Meknes

Once the pride of the Morocco's most fearsome ruler, Meknes is now a thriving provincial town surrounded by farmland and vineyards. It boasts a fascinating medina and the remains of Moulay Ismail's grand plans to rival the capital cities of Europe, his legacy of marble and blood.


Above: The walled medina of Meknes.


Above and inset:The lavish tomb of Moulay Ismail

A Cruel Sultan

Morocco's most brutal ruler was Moulay Ismail, who reigned from 1672 to 1727. He reputedly had a harem of over 500 women, with whom he fathered 700 sons and countless daughters, all ruled by the heavy hand and heavier whip of his legitimate wife, Sultana Zidana. His plans for the new capital required the labour of some 50,000 captives. It's said that if the sultan was not happy with the work, he would crush the worker's head with a brick, decapitate him or slit his throat. Their blood was mixed With the cement.

Meknes was founded in the 10th century by the nomadic Meknassa tribe, who were drawn to this fertile area of abundant water.
The Almohades and Merenids embellished the city with mosques and medersas, but it remained a small provincial town until 1672, when the new king Moulay Ismail made it his capital. Moulay Ismail greatly admired the French sun King Louis XIV and was keen to encourage cooperation between Morocco and France. Architecture was his passion and in Meknes he built huge palaces, mosques and walls, sometimes with marble plundered from Volubilis and Marrakech's el-Badi Palace. Soon after his death in 1727 his dream city fell into ruins, looted by his successors and damaged by the effects of the 1755 Lisbon earthquake.
Place el-Hedim is where the imperial city and the medina meet. Monumental Bab Mansour, with fine zellig decoration and ancient columns from Volubilis, is often used as a promotional symbol for the city, and even the whole country. Just past the gate the large, central square of Lalla Aouda is a popular meeting place for families. This was the processional square of Dar el-Kebira, Moulay Ismail's palace with 24 separate compounds, secluded gardens and mosques, most of which were destroyed by his son. A gate in the southwest corner of the square leads to the pavilion of Koubbet el-Kbiyatin, which was used by Ismail to receive foreign dignitaries.
Through the left-hand arch is the sumptuous Tomb of Moulay Ismail, which attracts pilgrims from all over the country. Only the courtyard can be visited, however, but the decoration, restored by King Mohammed V, is rich and exquisite. On the opposite side is Dar el-Makhzen, a "small" royal palace. Another impressive sight is Heri es Souani (or Dar el-Ma), the vast imperial granary. Next to it the Aguedal Tank, a huge basin that once supplied water to the palaces and gardens, is now a popular picnic spot.
On the other side of place el-Hedim is the Dar Jamai Museum, a 19th-century palace, which has fine Moroccan arts and a tranquil Andalucian garden. The main street of the souk is Souk es Sebat, leading to the 14th-century Bou lnania Medersa, one of the country's finest. Outside Bab el-Berdain, the marabout of Sidi ben Aissa (closed to non-Muslims) is the centre of one of Morocco's largest moussems on the eve of Mouloud - the Prophet Mohammed's birthday.

The vast old granaries of the Heri es Souani are the most impressive sight of the Imperial City

TAKING A BREAK

The rooftop cafe of the Heri es Souani has great views. Try the Restaurant Riad in Dar el-Kebira for lunch and el-Hedim's market for snacks. In the late afternoon and evening head for the Ville Nouvelle. Stop at Patisserie Moosberger (avenue Hassan II, near the Marche Central), which has excellent Moroccan sweets and French gateaux.

Ý 183 E3
v Buses from Fes, Tangier, Rabat, Ouezzane and Chefchaouen
t Trains from Fes, Tangier, Rabat, Oujda and Taza

Dar el-Ma
* Imperial City
º Daily 9-noon, 3-6; closed Aid el-Kebir (a moveable Islamic festival depending on the lunar calendar, but about 10 weeks after Ramadan)
I Inexpensive

Koubbet el Khiyatin
* Bab Fillala, off place Lalla Aouda
º Daily 9-noon, 3-6
I Inexpensive

Tomb of Moulay Ismail
* Imperial City
º Daily 9-noon, 3-6; closed Fri morning
I Inexpensive

Dar Jamai Museum
* place el-Hedime
( (05) 5530863
º Wed-Mon 9-noon, 3-6; closed national and religious holidays
I Inexpensive

Medersa Bou Inania
* rue Sebat, medina
º Daily 9-noon, 3-6
I Inexpensive

Haras Stud Farm
* Outside Meknes, on the road to Azrou
( (05) 5539753
º Mon-Fri 9-12, 3-5
v Buses 14, 15 and 16 from the Ville Nouvelle