The North

3. Chefchaouen

Chefchaouen (or Chaouen), with its whitewashed houses perched high against the mountains, is one of Morocco's most picturesque towns. The name Chaouen comes from the Berber for "horns", a reference to the shaped rock above the town. This sacred "Blue City" of tranquil alleys and friendly people exudes an air of calm and mystery.

In the maze of the medina, stumble upon beautiful doorways, sacred marabouts and weaving workshops

The road from Chaouen to al-Hoceima is spectacular but wild and dangerous. It takes around five hours to cover the 220km route, which features hairpin bends, steep mountain cliffs and, seasonally, strolling donkeys, mudslides and thick, covering cloud.

The city was founded in the 15th century by Moulay Ali ibn Rachid (a descendant of the Prophet Mohammed) near the tomb of Moulay Abdessalam. the Djebali tribe patron saint believed to possess strong supernatural powers. This sacred city of many mosques provided a safe haven for many Andalucian Muslims fleeing the Catholic kings of Spain, but for a long time it was closed to non-Muslims.
Before the Spanish broke through in 1920 only three Christians had managed to enter and leave with their lives, including Walter Harris in 1889.
The town is still traditionally divided into quarters, each with four mosques, four hammams and four medeirsas (Koranic schools). Elongated place Uta el-Hammam. the central square, is dwarfed by the surrounding mountains. On one side of the square are small cafes and restaurants, with crowded cannabis smoking rooms on the upper floor. Although officially illegal, this is very much part of life here. On the other side the imposing walls of the kasbah, and the Grand Mosque with a line octagonal minaret. Inside the kasbah fortress is a wonderful garden with palms, fig trees and flowers, and a small museum containing old photos, musical instruments and crafts. The square is surrounded by fondouks, particularly on rue el-Andalous. The light in the medina is extraordinary, reflected on the walls of the houses that glow with a mix of whitewash, blue and ochre. Throughout the medina are workshops where weavers work to designs virtually unchanged over the centuries. Assorted woollen blankets, as well as painted woodwork, are on show in the small Musee Artisanal (craft museum) next to the Parador Hotel Galerie Hassan (Tissemlal) also contains some excellent regional crafts and works by local painters.
On the southeast side of town is a Spanish mosque (open to non-Muslims). A path from here climbs into the mountains, beside small cannabis farms, and offers spectacular views over the town. A short walk from the medina is the small Ras el-Ma river, a pleasant place for a dip, whose waters irrigate chaouens gardens.

TAKING A BREAK

The café-terraces on Uta el-Hammam offer great views over the imposing kashah